Here’s the basic parts list:
Wood, obviously.
I used a scrap piece if maple. See the beginning of the build article for more information.

Always use a coupon at Harbor Freight. The 20% off one, or if you’re lucky, a 25% off one.
You can buy cheaper switches, but I like this one because it's relatively strong. But you're welcome to try the cheaper versions.
Screws
You need a couple of screws to attach the switch. I just used some I found in a drawer of mixed screws.
I used a 1/4-20" x 1/2" insert. You only need 1 of these, but this is the only link I could find. Buy one at a local hardware store.
I used a 1/4-20 x 1/2" screw. You only need 1 of these, but this is the only link I could find. Buy one at a local hardware store.
Indicator Gauges and Magnetic Bases
This isn't the one I have, but I think it's better & cheaper, and you don't need to drill the counterbore.
This isn't the one I use, but it's a good price and has decent reviews.
This is actually a good deal, if you don't already have a dial indicator

Always use a coupon at Harbor Freight. The 20% off one, or if you’re lucky, a 25% off one.
Various Tools I Used in the Video
I use this 12" version, but you can also get the 6" version from this link. You’ll need a pencil with a fine point.
I like this adjustable center punch, but since you adjust it by turning the red handle, the handle has a tendency to come unscrewed. So I used some Loctite on one punch for normal use, and bought a second punch for when I need to adjust it.
This is a great set of hex keys I use. It includes a case, and both SAE and Metric hex keys.
If you get one of these, see my video on changing the original sanding disc.

I know these are designed to use with routers, but I had them handy, and one of them was an ideal size curve, so why not use them?
No, I don’t expect anyone to buy this from my link, but hey, you never know. By the way, the Amazon price includes shipping. If you're going to get it shipped, then the price on Amazon is the same as anywhere else.
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